Planning & Itinerary

While staying at a B&B in Northern Michigan a few summers ago, I picked up a coffee table book named "Ten Years on Two Wheels" by Helge Pedersen. The book documented Helge's worldwide travels (250,000 miles and over 70 countries) on a BMW R80 G/S, a bike praised for being a "go anywhere, do anything" type of machine. I spent the evening pouring over every page and my fascination with motorcycle journeys, known as Adventure Riding, began.

After some random Googling, I stumbled across a documentary series called "Long Way Round". The series followed actors Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman as they rode, also on BMWs, from London all the way east to the Bering Straight and then from Alaska to New York City. Some more Googling directed me to www.advrider.com, a forum devoted to the pursuits of motorcycle journeys -- photo diaries, technical advice, suggested routes, even a group of members willing to open their backyards or homes to traveling riders. The forum quickly reached the top of my time-consumption list and I knew I was hooked. As a recreational rider for a few years, I knew I needed to enter this community of crazy individuals who felt the need to see the world on a motorbike.

I don't remember exactly how or why, but I decided that the Lake Superior Loop would be my entrance into the fold. The lake is relatively close to home, but is still far enough away and a long enough ride for me to consider it a substantial challenge, especially in the amount of time I knew I would have to complete it. Plus, there is a certain element of mystique to Lake Superior -- cold, huge, dangerous, rugged. By surface area, it's the largest freshwater lake in the world. By volume, only Lake Baikal in Siberia tops is. There is a tremendous amount of history surrounding Superior and circumnavigating the lake from coast to coast present a very clear objective, something that I really was looking for in my first trip. Once I got past Duluth, MN, there would be no turning back. I would have to finish the loop. Period.

I had intended to do the trip in the late summer of 2007, but work obligations prevented me from doing so. I knew I had to do it in 2008. Thankfully, I had a brief window between the primary elections on August 5th and later commitments in September. It also turned out that Laura would be leaving for grad school around the same time, and, if I detoured my travels to Toronto, I could attend an old friend's wedding. This time, it HAD to happen, so I put the plan together. I would leave Grand Rapids on Thursday, August 7, head east to Toronto for the wedding, then depart Toronto on Saturday morning, head north along the Lake Huron coast before crossing the border in Sault Ste. Marie to embark on Superior. Based on several recommendations from ADV Rider, I would travel the lake clockwise. This would prove to be a wise choice.

In order to save money and to get as far away from civilization as possible (an important component!), I decided that I would camp each night. I developed the following itinerary:

Nights 1&2 - Hotel in Toronto

Night 3 - Chutes Provincial Park in Ontario


Night 4 - Tahquamenon Falls State Park in Michigan


Night 5- F.J. McLain State Park in Michigan


Night 6 - Split Rock Lighthouse State Park in Minnesota


Night 7 - Sleeping Giant Provincial Park in Ontario


Night 8 - Lake Superior Provincial Park in Ontario


Nights 9 & 10 - Leelanau State Park in Michigan - a personal favorite of mine

Days 1 & 2 - Grand Rapids to Toronto

My dad was gracious enough to let me borrow his cycle for my trip, despite the disaster that took place last time I used it last summer. The Great Saddlebag Fire of 2007 (never forget!). I'll spare everyone the suspense and happily report that a similar catastrophe did NOT take place this time.

His larger bike (an 1100cc vs. my 535cc) would give me more room to pack gear, a longer fuel range, and some extra power to sustain longer highway-speed jaunts. I spent several hours perfecting a packing system. Fitting ten days worth of clothing, camping supplies and a fly rod took some creativity, but I felt confident in the set up and what I decided to pack. The only thing I was missing was a paid of waterproof riding gloves that weren't delivered in time for my departure.

After saying goodbye to Laura, again, at about 9:00 Thursday morning, I headed east to Toronto. This was the most boring ride of my life. 350+ miles of nothing but flat, straight superslab. With the exception of a bomb threat and subsequent two-mile backup at the border crossing and trying to navigate Toronto rush hour traffic after having my map blow away on the freeway, the day was uneventful.

After arriving in Toronto, I linked up with my parents and we headed over to the groom's parents' house. We were treated to Helen's famous Greek cooking and hospitality. Unfortunately, I was lame and fell asleep while the rest of the guys were out at the bachelor party.

Saturday was the wedding and I regrouped with friends that I hadn't seen in over ten years. I was young when we lived there, but they were great years. We developed a close group of friends, experienced Toronto's world class city life, and spent a lot of time in Ontario's outdoors. Memories quickly rushed back after seeing the familiar faces from my past life.

The bride and groom - Aristi & Michelle

Getting artsy at the reception

The old gang. From left to right -- Me, Aristi, Kat, Todd, Scott, Kristen and Lauren

Kat dancing with Todd -- a sign of things to come?

Day 3 - Toronto to Parry Sound

I left Toronto at about noon in a light drizzle. It looked like it would clear shortly and I didn't put on my rain gear. The weather didn't clear but instead rained harder and got colder. At highway speeds, it doesn't take long to be soaked. I pushed through for about 100 miles when the rain turned into a downpour. I don't mind riding in the rain, but this was ridiculous. I pulled over at the next exit and took shelter at a gas station. I spent the next couple hours trying to warm up by drinking coffee at Tim Horton's, but the rain didn't quit. I gave up and found a hotel in Parry Sound, about 150 miles short of my planned destination.

I had been hyping this trip for months and getting swamped on my first day really took the wind out of my sails. I couldn't warm up, the rain wouldn't quit, and it was a tough few hours. To make matters worse, Parry Sound's ONLY Beer Store closed just minutes before I could make it there! For those unfamiliar with Ontario's alcohol laws, beer and wine can only be sold at licensed Liquor Control Board of Ontario stores. There is only one in Parry Sound, and it closed daily at 6:00. All was remedied, though, when some friendly Canadian hotel mates, sensing my downtrodden spirits, graciously gave me a couple of ice cold Molsons. I spent the night catching up with the Olympics and all was well with the world.

My hotel room. Not great, but it fit the bill.

The lake in their backyard. I would have fished it but their canoe didn't have a paddle.

Day 4 - Parry Sound to Tahquamenon Falls

With yesterday's delay, I knew Sunday would be a long day. With everything dry, I was on the road by 8:00, and weather was looking more promising.
The biggest failure with my rain gear yesterday was my gloves, or lack thereof. Hands get cold, wet and numb very fast. I stopped at Wal Mart and grabbed a pair of $4 rubber work gloves. Not very comfortable and certainly not a traditional riding glove, but I knew they'd keep me dry in a pinch.

I headed north along the Georgian Bay, and the weather turned foul again. Steady rain and temperatures dropping into the 50s. I stopped to put on every stitch of clothing that I packed. I was able to stay dry and relatively warm, but, my ambitions to see this trip through were in serious jeopardy. I didn't envision doing this whole trip in the rain, and considered spending the night in Taq Falls and then just going home from there. This all changed when the sun came up and gave me perfect weather to complete a high mileage day.

Hi.

US-Canada Bridge in Sault Ste. Marie

Canadian side of Sault Ste. Marie -- pretty gritty place


Industrial complexes near the bridge look straight out of the Industrial Revolution era

Back into Merica

Sault border crossing -- not much of a backup


And finally set up at what might have been the least private site at the park.

Day 5 - Tahquamenon Falls to F.J. McLain State Park

Spirits were high this morning after yesterday's success. Sun was shining, maybe 70 degrees, and I was ready to go.

Lower Falls

Upper Falls

Perfect day

Heading into Grand Marais

Harbor at Grand Marais

Steed





Took a little hike to see Miner's Falls in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.



Miner's Rock


Pretty standard view

Old ore dock in Houghton, MI


Downtown Houghton


Arriving in McLain State Park

I quickly setup my tent, unloaded the bike a bit and immediately headed northeast to Copper Harbor on the Keewanaw Peninsula. I was heard this was a must see. I knew I'd be racing against the clock to get to Copper Harbor and back before nightfall, so I picked up the pace a bit. This did not go unnoticed by a friendly Trooper and I was pulled over. I freely admitted to the officer what speed I thought I was going and was extremely cordial and respectful. He wrote me a ticket for 5 over, which I thought was a generous offer. It could have been much worse. I won't say how much;-)

Eagle Harbor

Nightfall back at McLain